barryaday

Nude in the Sauna

Hello, friends! I thought that the title of today’s blog may catch your interest and bring you here to find out what I have been up to!

Last week I ventured by train to the foothills of the Alps to the town of Semmering in Lower Austria. As you may recall, I don’t have a car anymore and I have been walking everyday since I arrived in Mijas Pueblo, Spain in October.

The walking has built up my leg muscles and that really paid off as getting to my hotel at 3000 feet required a hike on highway and following marked trails through the woods. With backpack and water, I set out for the Hotel Panhans from the Semmering train station in what seemed to be at a minimum a 30 degree angle (which I am sure it isn’t). Had I not been doing so much walking since my arrival in Europe, it is questionable if I could have completed the trek. But I did! On arrival it was wonderful to relax with a coffee and some strudel.

I found Hotel Panhans on a web travel site and really didn’t know anything about it. On arrival I could tell that this was going to be special, Everything was spotless and well maintained. The staff provided service the way one would imagine it to be at a first class hotel from the 1800’s… which is exactly Hotel Panhans! My room was front-facing and the view of the mountains was breathtaking from my over-sized balcony with table and chairs on a tiled floor. The hotel has wonderful accommodations for their guests. One feature is the spa with sauna, pools, etc…. Actually there are three saunas and three pools each set at different temperatures.

When I went into the sauna I wore my swimming trunks without giving it a thought. I spread my towel on the hot wood planks and immediately the sweat oozed from my forehead and then the rest of me as my body began to turn pink. So this is what it feels like for a salmon to bake on a plank! Soon others arrived BUT none of the six people in their 30’s had anything on! I mean not a stitch! I was a bit uneasy and the heat in the room wasn’t just caused by the sauna’s thermostat settings! I found it difficult to find a place to fix my eyes and not be offending anyone! Soon I left and came to learn that in many places in Europe that my experience was not unique and that wearing something wasn’t considered to be appropriate. Who knew!

So that’s my story today from the mountains in Semmering where food delicacies abound and are complimented with new experiences in the sauna! Semmering is a beautiful, fairy tale place and I am enclosing above a panoramic photo of the view of the mountains from my balcony.

Gladiators

In the movie Gladiator, Russell Crowe plays the role of Maximus, son of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. Maximus’ life is relegated to fighting for his life as a gladiator after Commodus takes power and strips Maximus of his general officer rank. By several historical accounts, however, Maximus, as portrayed in the movie, is largely fictitious and a composite of several individuals. But Emperor Marcus Aurelius is real and died in 180 AD in a Roman camp in modern-day Vienna, Austria which is about an hour and a half from my apartment in Krems. Roman influence is still sometimes felt throughout the region. Last weekend I went to Tulln (a past Roman settlement) and was reminded of the Roman influence as modern-day gladiators with Maximus’ desire, determination, and dedication competed. More about that later.

Tulln is located on the right bank of the Danube River between Krems and Vienna and I have journeyed by train there three times in the past couple months. Tulln was settled well before the Romans arrived over 2000 years ago. The Roman Empire had an outpost in present-day Tulln and the Danube at one time was a boundary for the Empire. Near the Danube, in the area where the Roman fort was located, is a statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius and an excellent museum with artifacts and items attributed to Tulln’s Roman past. There are few visible, physical remnants of the town’s Roman-period existence except those excavated and now preserved in the museum.

I certainly enjoy visiting such historic places like Tulln and museums dedicated to their history. This museum is especially good with numerous artifacts and explanations of them. But on my post-retirement adventure in Europe I also crave several things that are simply American like pancakes with real maple syrup, eating hamburgers with real beef (think about that for a minute and you will understand), and so on…. One such craving is my passion for American football. That is what lured me last weekend to Tulln to see modern-day gladiators with the Tulln Air Force Hawks competing against the Blue Hawks from Asperhofen in a real American football game! It is wonderful that here in the middle of Europe I can experience watching the game I enjoy and witness things that have been incorporated into the game day.

American football in this area is what Americans would call a “club sport.” The players come from all over Lower Austria and are playing for the love of American football. Where football (soccer) is king, these gridsters may eye being discovered for an opportunity to play on an American college football team or may envision a professional career as the NFL in Europe gains traction. Regardless, they are modern-day gladiators.

The announcer spoke in German and added color in English like “Oh my God, quarterback sack!” Each team’s starting players ran onto the gridiron through “smoke” out of a large inflatable helmet as their names were announced. The officials marched onto the field (although out of step) and there was real respect for them. There were cheerleaders too! They came from the Vienna Wildcats and cheered for the Tulln Air Force team. There was a lot of fan noise throughout the game with horns, drums, clappers and other devices to support their hometown team! Noise was unending and only stopped at halftime and during injury time-outs. About 300 faithful fans attended. There was no halftime show and I observed that halftime was like a social outing among friends.

On the initial kick-off a player was injured. Every player on the manicured grass field and sidelines and every cheerleader went on a knee for this and each time a player was injured. I thought it to be respectful and almost like they were jointly sending a prayer that the injury not be serious. The food at the concession stand was interesting. Remember, this is Austria. The choices on the chalk menu were grilled frankfurters, grilled hamburgers (see note above), and, of course, grilled pork. Beer, wine and Coke were also sold along with cigarettes which were permitted to be smoked anywhere other than in the bleacher area.

Finally, Tulln’s gridsters just didn’t have an adequate passing quarterback and lacked a punter so they ran on every fourth down (including a 4th and 20 from their own 20!). Asperhofen’s Blue Hawks had a dominating defense and at the end, the hometown gladiators lost the contest. However, I give them and the game a “thumbs up” as each of the modern-day gladiators, the fans, and I enjoyed the day of American football.

Wine, Pork, Apricots, and Apple Strudel in Lower Austria

Lower Austria is a state in Austria where the Danube River flows through the country. The state is in the northeastern part of Austria and is named “lower” to indicate elevation which is lower than in the mountainous regions of the country. I am presently residing in Krems which is at the end of the Wachau Valley in Lower Austria and have previously documented the beauty of the region in other blog posts.

In this entry I want to tell you more about the food and wine. Food and wine are very serious topics for which there is great pride in heritage, taste and visual effects. Principle meat products in the region come from pigs. Beef is extremely expensive. In addition, chicken is available but overall pork wins out as the primary dietary meat component. Roasted and smoked pork products are in huge demand and are sold in grocery stores, markets and are everywhere during festivals. Pork is on every menu and it appears to me to be in just about every lunch and dinner. I like eating the roast pork and schnitzel.

FullSizeRender (13) — Terraced Vineyards in Spitz, Austria

220px-Gruener_Veltliner_Weinsberg_20060909 — Gruener Veltliner Grapes

Wine is sacred in the Wachau Valley! Vines are grown all along the Danube River in the terraced slopes on the hillside in the Wachau. The stone terraced slopes (pictured) are traditional everywhere in the Wachau. Gruener Veltliner (picture copyright Wikipedia) is the main grape grown here and makes up about 35% of Austria’s wine production. That is more than any other grape in the country. It dates back to Roman times and makes a dry white wine that white wine lovers enjoy… I personally prefer a red. I have been on two winery tours since arriving in Austria and they were both very worthwhile. In the tours you obtain a sense of the wine production methods, quality control and how intensely important wine production is to the people who live in Lower Austria.

Apricots (marilee) are another main crop in the Wachau Valley. They were introduced to the region before the Romans arrived, more than 2000 years ago. While wine grapes are mainly grown on the slopes of the left bank of the Danube, the largest apricot growing region comes from the right bank near Rossatz. The area orchards are often referred to as the “apricot mile.” So far, I have enjoyed the jam and liqueurs that are made from them. Soon, though, there will be an abundance of fresh apricots on sale everywhere here. I will be stuffing myself with them!

Just as wine is sacred to the residents of Lower Austria, apple strudel is sacred to me!!! Every restaurant and bakery has an abundance of sweet apple strudel, served warm and enhanced by vanilla sauce and / or real whipped cream. I enjoy the strudel any time of the day but especially at breakfast with a nice, aromatic coffee. Frankly, I haven’t found an apple strudel that I didn’t enjoy!

That’s the update from Austria today. I hope you enjoyed my observations about local wine and foods!

Saving Money and Living Well in Lower Austria

Hi, everyone. It has been a few weeks since I last updated you about my adventures in Austria. I have several things to share about Lower Austria and will write more in the future. Meanwhile, today I am going to give you a few tips to save money should you ever want to venture here.

My Uncle Lee lived most of his life in Europe. Our family always thought he was a bit odd (actually very much so) and must have been fairly rich to live in Europe. But I have found that I can live very well (and less expensively) here and have found several smart ways that enable me to enjoy the area and significantly reduce my expenses. So, for the moment journey with me as we pass through an alleyway where surprises are always found. Here are some of the surprises I have found that save money for my adventure in Europe..

Mobile phone calls using American phone plans are expensive and need to be ditched right away! If you have an unlocked smartphone, there are local providers of SIM cards that are really inexpensive. Coupled with Skype or MagicJack on your phone you can greatly reduce costs for voice and data. For example, Verizon international charges in Europe are around $25 for each 100MB. At T-mobile I replaced the SIM card in my Apple iPhone and get 10GB of data for about $17. That’s astonishing and is saving me about $300 per month!

There are discounts everywhere! Public transportation is incredibly fantastic! In Austria I applied for a discount for the national OBB railway since I am over 60 years old. The card cost around $20. With the card the discount on rail and bus fares is 40%. I recovered the cost of the card on my first round trip to Vienna and now am saving everywhere I travel.

Local grocery stores, just like in the U.S., have discount cards. But in Austria, the discounts are also on travel and other things. I also bought a “Niederosterreich Card” for about $58. With it many attractions are free in Lower Austria. I have cruised up the Danube free ($28 without the discount), taken the Wachau train, visited numerous museums and wineries at no additional expense.

Just about every cafe has a daily special to attract customers. These are called “Menu” items and are usually posted by the door or on a placard in the street. They offer superb deals for great breakfasts or lunches. In the evening, prices go up so if I am eating out for lunch, I eat a relatively inexpensive meal where a drink is often included! The photo is for a meal for 5.90 Euros or about $6.25.

I was able to book my apartments online through Airbnb or Home Away but couldn’t find a place to stay in June. However, I found a solution at the local Tourist Information office where I was directed to the Danube University in Krems. When school isn’t in session, the university rents dorm rooms very inexpensively (about half of what I would otherwise pay in renting an apartment) to tourists and many bicycle riders. I can also get breakfast for 5 Euros! What a bargain. So I will stay there in June.

So my Uncle Lee was pretty smart living in Europe and I hope that the tips I have provided may be useful should you venture this way!

The “Little Rose Garden” of the Wachau Valley

My travel adventures have taken me throughout the United States and every continent. I have fond memories of the terracotta soldiers in China, huge tortoises in the Galápagos, Uluru in Australia, penguins in Antarctica, going inside the Great Pyramid in Egypt, walking around Stonehenge in England, and many more! But I must say that the Wachau Valley in Austria with the Danube River flowing through it is certainly the most beautiful location I have ever visited.

Yesterday, I journeyed to the heart of the Wachau Valley, reminiscent of complicated journeys of the past by tour boat, car ferry, hiking, and bus. The journey itself took plenty of time, particularly when I found myself on the wrong side of the Danube (thus the need for the ferry)! But my digression leads me to the heart of this blog when I visited Burgruine Aggstein, the castle ruin high atop a mountain overlooking the river. There is a fantastic aerial view of the castle by going to this link.

There is a medieval event at the ruins at the moment. People are arriving in costumes and there are tents where people are selling food, drink, medieval-looking toys, jewelry and many other things. My goal was to tour the castle, which I accomplished. However, I also ate a hearty meal of roasted ham, grilled cabbage, and a dough ball that contained I know not what except for the horseradish that lingered through the night!

It is believed that the castle was constructed in the 12th century on a natural rock formation. It is located approximately 300 meters above the river and has excellent views of the river in either direction. The strategic value was to excise bounty from the merchants as they moved their goods past this point by boat. For example, the castle dungeon held many until a handsome ransom would be paid! You can learn more about Aggstein by clicking this link.

The castle contains interesting places such as a blacksmith shop, bakery, chapel, etc…but the title of this blog is about the “little rose garden” of owner Jorg Scheck who acquired the castle in 1429. He was a very brutal person. He is someone you just didn’t want to mess with as those he determined he didn’t care for soon found themselves on a rocky outcrop high on the mountain. It is about 1 -2 meters by 7-10 meters. Prisoners had a choice from this perch. They could starve as they were exposed to the elements or they could jump to their death from this steep cliff. Scheck was a cynical person and referred to this outcrop as his “little rose garden.”

The "little rose garden" with a prisoner contemplating his fate — The “little rose garden” with a prisoner contemplating his fate

I have included a photo leading to the rose garden through the thick castle wall. Note the carved out steps worn smooth over the centuries. And also pictured is the rose garden itself.

Many visit the Wachau Valley but river cruises may not stop at a place convenient to visit Burgruine Aggstein. This is really too bad. If you come to the area, this is one place to not miss.

The Architecture is About the Lines

Hello, Friends.

The past few days as I roamed through parts of the Wachau Trail in Austria, I came to realize that I am taken not only by the beauty of the buildings and ruins but also by their simplicity and unique architectural lines. As I see these buildings with lines that are not straight, have bulges, and often lack symmetry, I understand that I am finding them to be very beautiful. I look at the craftmanship that has gone into the buildings and see works of art.

For example, today I enclose two photos taken in Durnstein and Krems. One is of a Krems house that was built in 1210 and the other is ruins from the Durnstein Castle built in the twelfth century. Notice the lack of symmetry in the house and imagine the castle ruins taking structural shape based on the rocks high in the mountain overlooking the Danube River.

Of course there are architecture representations where engineers of the day constructed buildings that have almost perfect lines, like the Steiner Tor built in the fifteenth century. This photograph isn’t mine as I just can’t seem to capture it well. But it is beautiful at the western entrance to old Krems.

There are numerous statues in Krems many of which are depictions of religious figures. One that I have not yet learned about was constructed in 1682. It appears to me to be an old knight, possibly from the crusades. Crusaders traveled this way.

Signs of Spring are everywhere now! The apricot trees are in bloom and soon the millions of grape vines will be growing again on the Wachau Valley slopes on both sides of the Danube River. Both apricots and wine are specialty products in this area and I am looking forward to enjoying them throughout the Spring and Summer.

One last photo for today is taken from the castle ruins in Durnstein. King Richard I of England was imprisoned here in 1191 on returning from the crusades. The castle overlooks the river valley below, the town of Durnstein, and the numerous vineyards. The Wachau Valley is a very beautiful place!

All for now!

“Old” is a Relative Term in Krems, Austria

So the past few days I have been out and about in Krems, Austria and there is so very much to absorb here! Yesterday alone I walked over 7 miles in awe! I am like a sponge soaking up Krems and I admit it is overwhelming! I will be writing more in the future about what I am seeing and doing as well as my reflections of this beautiful, historic town and area along the Danube River.

As I have said previously, Krems is “old” and I am so consumed with the architecture that I am rapidly filling the memory in my iPhone as I take one photo after another. But today I felt like I have to draw a line otherwise I would be taking pictures of everything! So the line I drew is this…unless it has some particular aesthetic value, I want to take photos if the structure (or whatever) came about prior to 1600! So that, for now, will be my guide for photographing and sharing “old” Krems.

Krems is the eastern gateway to the Wachau Valley which is a World Heritage Site. Today I want to share with you a photo of a local fountain and the story that goes with it, The fountain is near my apartment and is of a man on a knee before a woman with the inscription “SIMANDL”. I thought it was a man proposing marriage but it turns out that “simandl” means “henpecked!” The monument is about the story of the town’s men and, in this case, a man imploring his wife to give him the house key so he can participate in a man’s night out! You can read more about this very interesting fountain at this link here.

The food is terrific! I have eaten pork in many ways and there are so many cafes to grab a fragrant coffee, bold wine, or warm strudel in vanilla sauce. Even though it was cold today, I along with others ate fresh-made ice cream! Who can resist a cone for 1 Euro (about $1.10)!

More soon, my friends!

From 28 C in Mijas, Spain to 5 C in Krems, Austria!

Yesterday I arrived in Krems, Austria where I am residing on holiday from Mijas, Spain. It was a chilly 5 degrees C (41 F with snow flurries) when I arrived in Krems which is in stark contrast to the 28 degrees C (82 F with people sunbathing on the beach) when I left Spain!

After six months in Spain my lease had expired and people are returning for the hot Summer. My plan has been to stop next in Austria for several months and Krems became my choice after visiting in January. I am posting a few scenes of the architecture in Krems.

The town of approximately 25,000 may be the oldest in Austria. A few years ago a child’s grave was found in Krems and is thought to be more than 27,000 years old! The town is along the Danube (Donau) River and is easily accessible by train to nearby Vienna and elsewhere throughout Austria. Many tourists will soon be arriving by bus, boat and train to explore hiking trails, the river, food, culture, architecture and nearby castles. Since I like these things too, I will be a tourist for the next few months!

On arrival my landlord recommended I eat at El Gozo in Krems. It is his favorite restaurant so I met Lu, the owner. She is recently from Madrid and enjoyed helping me order tapas and wine. The food and value were outstanding and I have written a separate review of the restaurant on TripAdvisor. What a coincidence arriving from Spain and eating my first dinner at the sole Spanish restaurant in town!

After eating I had planned to shop for groceries… after all it was only 8:00 PM. Lu reminded me that in Krems, the grocery stores close at 7:00 PM which is sharp contrast to life in Spain where things are just beginning then for the evening! So I went grocery shopping today!

More to come so please return to my blog in the future and read about my adventure in Krems an der Donau!

Auf widersehen!

Reflections as I Near the End of My Stay in Mijas, Spain

In the waning days here in the pueblo it dawned on me that I think of this as my town. I know the town doctor and the people at the Bella Vista know what I like to eat for breakfast. Alfredo, the butcher at the market knows me and shakes my hand as we meet on the street and asks me how I am. Brenda and Steve at The English Tea Room are always friendly and enjoyable to talk with. Of course, Joanne, David and Martin who rent the place I am staying, are very helpful. I even have a taxi driver and butane delivery contact in my phone!

Today I realized that I was very comfortable in the pueblo. I have answered tourist questions like I knew what I was talking about! But most important to me was that I have become fascinated by the tourists just as the local people are fascinated by them. I sat for a while in Constitution Plaza and watched them. As a cruise ship tour group from Japan was in town today I realized they were enjoying the very same things that have drawn me to Mijas… the beauty of the town on the mountain, the white exteriors of the buildings, the cobble stone streets, the horse-drawn carriages, the donkey taxis, the husband and wife making and selling churros, three for a Euro, at the Plaza near the bull ring and park with its old fountains

As the sun shown on the buildings, I reflected on the initial time I saw the pueblo and how lovely it is. The numerous orange trees still have oranges on them and the air wafts with the aroma of street vendors roasting nuts. Today I had my traditional pitufa con tomate breakfast as I gazed at the valley, the massive Mediterranean Sea, Fuengirola, and the beach below.

On my return to my apartment I stopped for bread just out of the oven. Like a local, I knew when it was ready and had my plastic bag ready to carry my items away, just like the local people do. In the final few days here in Mijas Pueblo I feel like I have become a local resident.

As I move to Krems, Austria in a couple of weeks I am certain to further reflect on my adventure in Mijas Pueblo on the Costa del Sol, the warm beach,, the mountains in Morocco that can be seen on a clear day, the beautiful sunsets, no snow, and many other things. It has been a wonderful place to stay.

Day Trip to Malaga

Malaga is the nearest community to Mijas Pueblo with a substantial population on the Costa del Sol in Andalusia, Spain. It is the capital of the Provence of Malaga. The city is one of the oldest in the world with a recorded history that dates into the 700’s BC. Phoenicians, Romans, and the Moors were all in Malaga at one time or another.

Malaga is a port for several cruise lines and many of the people on those cruises take day trips to Mijas Pueblo where I have been residing since October. The climate in Malaga is mild.

My day trip began with a bus ride down the mountain I live on to get to the train station in Fuengirola. Forty five minutes later I arrived in the heart of the small city of half million inhabitants.

Walking the streets of Malaga there is no doubt you are in a European city. The architecture is beautiful and the avenues are graced with old as well as newer sculptures and fountains. There are outdoor cafés everywhere and it seemed to me that if there was room for a small table, that was sufficient reason to have a place to drink some of the best coffee in the world or to stop for ice cream or chocolate.

Malaga is the birthplace of Picasso. I must admit that I find the curiosity surrounding him much more interesting than his art. That is just my taste. But Picasso is found everywhere including one of the Picasso museums that are in the area.

Some recommend that Malaga should be a destination for those wishing to avoid snow and winter. Although it is a nice city, my preference is to claim my spot on the side of the mountain overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and the distant Atlas Mountains in Morocco.

Next week I plan to visit Mallorca, a Spanish island in the Mediterranean. I hope you will stop by my blog for one of my final entries before I move on to Austria on April 1.

For those who have asked, my hernia surgery took place three weeks ago and I am healing fine. It has taken a bit longer than I had anticipated but all is going well.